What the hyperfocal distance calculator does
Focus a lens at the hyperfocal distance and everything from half that distance to infinity is acceptably sharp — the maximum depth of field the lens and aperture can give. Landscape, street and architectural photographers use it to set focus once and shoot without refocusing. Enter the focal length, aperture and circle of confusion (or sensor format) and the calculator returns the hyperfocal distance and the near limit of sharpness. Runs in your browser.
The formula
H = f² / (N × c) + f
f = focal length (mm), N = f-number, c = circle of confusion (mm)
Near limit when focused at H = H / 2
35 mm at f/11 on full frame (c = 0.03):
H = 1225 / (11 × 0.03) + 35 = 3,747 mm ≈ 3.7 m
→ focus at 3.7 m: sharp from 1.9 m to infinityHyperfocal distances at a glance (full frame, c = 0.03 mm)
| Focal length | f/5.6 | f/8 | f/11 | f/16 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16 mm | 1.5 m | 1.1 m | 0.8 m | 0.6 m |
| 24 mm | 3.4 m | 2.4 m | 1.8 m | 1.2 m |
| 35 mm | 7.3 m | 5.1 m | 3.7 m | 2.6 m |
| 50 mm | 14.9 m | 10.5 m | 7.6 m | 5.3 m |
| 85 mm | 43 m | 30 m | 22 m | 15 m |
Divide by about 1.5 for APS-C (c = 0.02) or by 2 for Micro Four Thirds (c = 0.015) when using the same actual focal length — the stricter circle of confusion pushes the distance out, but the shorter equivalent lenses used on those formats bring it back in.
Using it in the field
- Set the aperture first — f/8 to f/11 is the usual landscape choice, balancing depth against diffraction.
- Focus at H using the lens distance scale, live view magnification on an object at about that distance, or by estimating (pace it out — 3.7 m is about four long strides).
- Err on the far side. Focusing slightly beyond H costs a little near sharpness; focusing short of it costs infinity, which is usually worse. Many photographers focus at 1.5× H for safety.
- Switch to manual focus once set, so the camera does not refocus on the next shutter press.
- Check the foreground: if a key element is closer than H/2, either stop down, use a shorter lens, or focus stack.
Circle of confusion values
| Format | c (mm) | Basis |
|---|---|---|
| Full frame | 0.030 | Zeiss formula d/1440 on a 43 mm diagonal |
| APS-C | 0.020 | |
| Micro Four Thirds | 0.015 | |
| 1-inch | 0.011 | |
| Medium format 44 × 33 | 0.037 | |
| Stricter (large prints, high-res sensors) | Half the above | Doubles H — more conservative |
The standard values assume an 8 × 10 in print viewed at normal distance. For large prints or 100% viewing on a 45-megapixel sensor, use a smaller c (the calculator lets you type one) — the hyperfocal distance doubles and the near limit moves out accordingly.
When not to use the hyperfocal distance
- When the main subject is at a specific distance and the background does not matter — focus on the subject.
- When the closest important element is much nearer than H/2 — focus stacking or a tilt-shift lens gives better results than stopping down to f/22.
- When infinity itself must be critically sharp (stars, distant mountains at 100%) — focus at infinity instead and accept a nearer near limit.
- With very long lenses, where H is hundreds of metres and the concept stops being useful.